Rationals
Rationals are a popular name for full, pleated, serge bloomers or knickerbockers worn by women for bicycling in the 1890s. Rationals provided a practical alternative to long skirts, offering mobility and comfort while cycling.
In the 1890s, the bicycle became a symbol of freedom for women, coinciding with the early women’s rights movement. Traditional skirts and petticoats were impractical for cycling, leading to the adoption of rationals—a form of bifurcated garment resembling loose-fitting knickerbockers. These bloomers, often pleated and made of durable serge fabric, allowed for greater movement and safety while riding.
The name “rationals” stemmed from the idea that they were a “rational” alternative to cumbersome skirts. While some women embraced them, others faced social backlash, as wearing pants or pant-like garments was still considered controversial. Nevertheless, rationals played a role in the broader movement toward more practical women’s clothing, influencing later developments such as culottes and divided skirts.
The introduction of rationals ignited fierce debates about propriety and femininity. Women wearing them were often ridiculed, and in some places, even harassed. Despite this, they found supporters among progressive women who championed dress reform.
Cycling itself became an emblem of female independence, with prominent feminists like Susan B. Anthony praising the bicycle’s impact on women’s autonomy. Rationals were adopted by members of the Rational Dress Society, a group advocating for comfortable and health-conscious clothing over restrictive corsets and heavy skirts.
Although rationals never fully replaced skirts, they paved the way for greater acceptance of trousers in women’s fashion. Today, their legacy can be seen in modern activewear and athleisure, which prioritize function over rigid gender norms.
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Women in rationals were sometimes called “bloomerites” after Amelia Bloomer, an early advocate of practical women’s dress.
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Some cycling clubs banned women in rationals, forcing them to wear skirts over their bloomers.
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Satirical cartoons mocked women in rationals, portraying them as scandalous or unfeminine.
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“Rationals were loose-fitting bloomers or knickerbockers worn by women for cycling in the 1890s. They were practical and comfortable, but not everyone approved of women wearing them. Though they disappeared from everyday fashion, they helped pave the way for women wearing trousers.”
By the early 20th century, rationals had largely faded from mainstream fashion as cycling attire became more specialized. However, their influence resurfaced in various iterations:
- 1920s & 1930s – Culottes and divided skirts became fashionable for sportswear.
- 1960s & 1970s – Women’s trousers gained widespread acceptance, thanks in part to earlier trailblazers.
- 21st Century – The rise of functional fashion and gender-fluid clothing reflects the same ethos of practicality that rationals represented.
In contemporary fashion, brands emphasize comfort and functionality in activewear, mirroring the original purpose of rationals.
Rationals can be reimagined today using sustainable fabrics like organic cotton, hemp, or recycled synthetics for eco-conscious cycling wear. Brands like Patagonia and Girlfriend Collective already promote durable, ethical activewear, aligning with the original purpose of rationals.
Practical ideas:
- Upcycled rationals – Vintage-inspired cycling shorts made from repurposed materials.
- Gender-neutral activewear – Modernized rationals can appeal to a wide audience, breaking gender stereotypes.
- Small-batch production – Avoids overproduction and waste.
The historical relevance of rationals can merge with today’s slow fashion movement to create stylish, ethical cycling attire.
- Cycling in the 1890’s by Nancy Bradfield
- Women in Pants: Manly Maidens, Cowgirls, and Other Renegades
- Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women’s Fashion from the Fin de Siècle to the Present
- Bicycles, Bloomers and Great War Rationing
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